Source: web.archive.org
The MARINA MILITARE is the world’s first combat diver watch, made by ROLEX on a request from the Italian Navy in 1939 (15 years before the birth of the submariner!). I have 2 of these in my personal collection. They are worth $20,000 in contemporary auctions. One of these I took completely apart and analyzed as study material for the current model.
The most impressive features of this model are the three dimensional complex curve case design, the duel construction luminous dial system, and the special metal (base dial & inner case) antimagnetic performance. In addition to this, we included modern technology’s most superior materials and first-rate brand accessories. In short, we included everything possible.
Brand names sell at high prices based on their name alone, but their cost rate is less than one tenth the quality. I started making watches because of a deep love for watches. I am focusing on creating quality for the consumer rather than on profit.
“MARINA MILITARE” means Navy in Italian.
The MARINA MILITARE was an original model made in 1939 by Rolex. It can be said that the Arabic numerals, 12,3,6, and 9 combined with a bar index was essential for a military watch, providing a superior design where time could be read within mere instants.
In 1938, the British army rushed to use the same design for their prototype (made by Longines). The original dial design was a duel dial in which the entire antimagnetic metal (duralumin) base dial with was covered with radium (not used today due to its cancer causing nature). A top dial over this was cut to allow the numbers and bar index to show through. Compared to a standard watch design, in which the luminous fluid was only printed on the numbers and the bar index, the radium covered the entire base dial and showed through holes in the top dial, putting out a great deal of light.
Here is my model. It is the same design as the Rolex, save for the classic small second display at 9 ‘o clock. The vital dual layer dial construction is the same as the original. The base dial employs antimagnetic soft iron.The base dial for this contemporary model is entirely covered with the superior luminous paint Super Luminova (natural luminescence that does not contain cancer causing elements), and the top dial with holes in it to let the numbers and bar index show through is placed on top. I have named this dial system “PLASMIR” and registered it as a trademark. The reason for this name is that the interior luminescence is as strong as plasma. Of course, it is superior to the original radium layer.
Looking at the original MARINA watch through a magnifying glass will reveal that the numbers are not just printed on, but chiseled into the face, exposing the duralumin material underneath. Also difficult to see without a magnifying glass in my model: the “MARINA MILITARE” logo, the silver bar index of the small second display, etc. have all been chiseled with a laser. After this it is plated to bring out a metallic feel. It would be such a great honor to present this dial, which has traveled such a long journey towards perfection. The minute and hour hands are the exact same as the original, and are luminous like the dial.
*The American army use watches used in Hollywood action movies by a variety of stars last year such as Brad Pitt, with tritium gas sealed into illumination tubes in the dial and needle were popular in Japan. However, unfortunately, the Japanese model did not meet with Japanese standards and the illumination was so faint as to make it totally incomparable to the American army model. I can say with confidence that currently the amount of illumination in my model outshines the rest.
This is a close up shot of the side and leg off the 1939 Rolex manufactured original case. From this close up shot you can see the three dimensional complex case shape and leg shape. Also, the back case (back lid) is 1 mm in thickness, the very essence of heavy duty. The belt rod is pounded in and cannot be removed.
Here is my model. The complex three dimensional streamlined shape (the case body is made completely of curved planes) is made by hand in exactly the same manner as the original. I substituted the ordinary stainless steel SUS304 used in the original model with the best in modern metals, SUS3116L (a durable metal with antimagnetic properties).
The back case is made from the same material and the thickness is the same as the original, over 1 mm. The belt covers the belt rod in this photo, so the intricate complexity of the rod construction cannot be seen. There is a minus bolt in both sides, and a screw has been inserted into the central pin. This is covered with a pipe which allows the belt to rotate without coming into direct contact with the pin. To facilitate this, the bolts are fastened loosely. However, with frequent use some loosening of the bolts cannot be avoided. For individuals concerned about this, I suggest applying screw bond or manicure to the bolts to tighten them and stop the loosening.
Here are the belt and buckle on the 1939 original. The belt leather is horse leather permeated with oil to give seawater resistance. The buckle is a fish type stainless 304 flat one piece body buckle. Because it is flat, the buckle rises when the watch is put on the wrist. Designed for underwater warfare, this was not a concern for soldiers in bulky diving suits of the day.
Here is the buckle and marine sports black leather belt attached to my model. Keeping in form with the original, the buckle is a fish style buckle. However, I have made it more heavy duty by adding thickness. The material is the same SUS316L that is used for the case, and is hand engraved. The original model was flat, but taking into account every day usage and human engineering, I have added curves and a taper. The belt can be taken off and exchanged easily with the tools that come with the watch.About the marine sports black belt:
This belt has an extremely unique construction which allows it to be washed with detergent. Special chemical processing has been added to French horse leather so that the salt can be washed off of the watch with a neutral detergent (soft detergents are the best). With untreated leather, oil must be applied every usage or the leather will get hard and cracks will start to form. I have personally worn shirts with this leather incorporated in them for over 3 years, and have washed them plenty of times in a washing machine without the leather becoming hard. Impressed with the sheer quality of this leather, I decided to use it for my watch belt.
About the brown Connolly Leather belt:
For this model we hired Imperial Household horse harness artisans, makers of the leather used by the British Royal Family in Queen Elizabeth’s reign in 1878, as well as the same ultimate leather used in the interior and seat upholstery of cars from Rolls Royce, Aston Martin, Bentley, and Ferrari (the same leather used in the F-1 car seat!). They hand sewed the leather with thick string, one by one. Looking at the real band, you will be able to see that the leather has been doubled over and sewn together just like the original model. This increases the strength, and was necessary in providing twice the amount of this valuable leather than normal.
*Famous French quality brand makers within Japan also offer a watch with Connolly Leather, but ordering the same type of product will run over 20,000yen. I offer belts sold separately. The brown Connolly (hand sewn) belt is 9,800yen, and the black washable leather belt is 8,000yen. A belt exchange bolt set is included. Buckles are 3,000yen.
Here is a photo that displays the inner part of an original 1939 Rolex antimagnetic inner case. Antimagnetic models of the day were largely made from duralumin (an aluminum alloy used in airplanes). The black portion is a cover of black paint designed to stop the discoloration of duralumin. The thickness is about 0.5mm.
And here is my model. This is a photograph showing the antimagnetic inner case, which is the same as the original. I used soft iron, which is a higher quality antimagnetic material, on the case, the inner case, and of course in the inner dial as well. This method is the same as the one used in IWC Engineer and Mark series, and also for the Rolex Milgauss. At 1.15 mm, the thickness of the soft iron inner case is over two times the original. These features give the same 1,000 Gauss = 80,000 A/m measurement antimagnetic as the “Engineer” and the “Milgauss”, which protects the watch movement from electromagnetic waves put out by computers, cellular phones, and the like.
*Models from other companies in 2002 that use back skeleton construction were not given much thought by the jewelry makers and are nothing more than mere decoration pieces. My watch isn’t for people who enjoy looking at watches made by a company which puts their own logo over another company’s movement and then simply covers the watch with machine pressed cliched decorations. Treating a famous military model as a jewelry watch (diamond inlay model) is just deplorable in the eyes of those who truly love the original piece. Why do I demand outstanding technology and performance from my model without focusing on the outer decoration only? Within the realm of my ability I aspire to produce a perfectionism that will protect the policies of the original maker.
Here is a photo of a 1939 Rolex model back case (back lid)
Here you can see the exclusive engraved seal confirming that this watch that I own was indeed made by Rolex in 1939 on a request from the Italian Navy.
MONTRES (MONTRES means “watch” in French) ROLEX SA (this is the company information)
In English, this means Rolex Watch Company.
GENEVA SWITZELAND Geneva, Switzerland
Under that, it says PATENTED
SWISS MADEAnd just like modern Rolex watches, the model number or product code number is engraved as 6152/1.
The photo showing this isn’t on this page, but the original case body has the case number 124774 engraved in it in the space near the 6th hour leg, exactly the same as contemporary models. By this it is clear that it is a 1939 model. In the 12 ‘o clock space the French word BREVET (patented) is engraved. From these facts, it is confirmed that from 1939 to the 1950s Rolex manufactured watches for all 250 piece large scale cushion case combat diver Ref.6152.
Movement
The 1939 Rolex Ref.6171 is equipped with a Rolex pocket watch type17-stone large hand rolled large movement Cal.618. The precision is up to 40 seconds deviation per day.
My Marina Militare model is equipped with 17-stone pocket watch movement just like the original, made by the famous Swiss time-honored movement maker Unitus. Since other companies also use this movement, it is well known that there is a small second display in the 9 ‘o clock space, and it exhibits superior movement with a 21,600 beat power reserve and a deviation of under plus or minus 20 seconds within 41 hours (when stationary condition is checked by a tester). It is easy enough to pass the Chronometer (plus or minus 18 seconds: when stationary condition is checked by a tester) Test (the test fee is about 3,000). However, the Swiss clock industry is very closed towards brands that are not Swiss (Swiss watches include watches from France, Germany, Italy, etc.). For these brands, in order to protect Swiss makers various reasons are given for not being allowed to take the test. Even in the event that a foreign brand passes the test, it is not issued a certificate.
*2 years ago, I had the painful experience of having my RWX “Moon Stars” model pass the Chronometer Test, but pressure from the king company resulted in that fact being covered up.
Bergeon precision screwdriver
Bergeon makes the highest quality watch tools and is the brand of choice for watch masters from the pride of Swiss watch making. Presently there is no watch tool manufacturer that can match Bergeon’s quality. Bergeon tools can be bought in Japan, but one screwdriver will run at least 2,000yen.
British SELVYT cloth
A polishing cloth of such quality as to be recognized by worldwide Bergeon outlets (it sells in the Bergeon catalogue as a W name). This is a top quality pro use item used by watch brands and precious metal brands. Within Japan one cloth usually sells for about 2,000yen.
Crystal
W curve dome-shaped sapphire crystal with non-reflective coating.
This is more faithful in reproducing the same feel as the tight curve of the acrylic R dome on the original.
Decorative Box
In the spirit of offering this item as a 20th year celebration of the founding of Ginza KEN TRADING Co., Ltd., we took great care on the design of the box. We called upon the resources of Fame Ford, a maker specializing in the exclusive manufacturing of top quality watch gift boxes. It would be impossible to list all the names here, but they have provided decorative boxes to a such a variety of makers such as F.M., famous for decorative boxes for 10,000,000 class top quality products and the Tonneau model. And now they have made a wood box for our R.W.X. The high quality and gorgeousness of the box is such that I sincerely wish everyone could come in and see it with their own eyes. Of course having this decorative box made was quite expensive, but thinking of the look of pleasure upon my customers’ faces when the box is delivered into their hands leaves no room for thoughts of things such as expenditures. For me, even a box can become an expression of my heart. Considering this, perhaps you can understand my dedication towards watches.
What follows is a simple explanation of the difference between the P watch, which is just a modern name brand, and the original P Company which existed since its founding in Firenze in 1860 to 1993.The company was founded in 1860 in Firenze with the name “Giovanni P Watch Shop”. In its second era it was renamed “Swiss Watch Shop” and became an agent for companies like Rolex and Patek. The family of third era Guido’s wife was in the equipment making business and was also involved in making military equipment. With an epoch making invention he created the P Company. The invention was a torpedo sighting device that made use of radium. Rolex used the dual construction system from equipment like sighting devices, depth meters, and compasses in their dials in 1939. After that, in 1956 the model that was officially sold to the Italian navy (and the Egypt navy as well) was the P Company’s completely original revolving bevel attached round type (same type as the P Company depth meters and compasses). 30 years later, in 1986, the new prototype (round) passed the army test, but recent international stability and reduction in military spending resulted in no official orders being filed. The prototype was thus put on the civilian market as a diver’s watch.
In 1993, the same year that Maria P. (strangely, the last descendant of the P family line) passed away, P Company reduced the size of the 1939 large type 47 mm diameter cushion case to 44 mm in diameter and made a model that simplified the case that had been made from curved planes consisting of complex three dimensional and flowing lines into a straight edge dominated shape (to make mass production possible at a low cost with simple manufacturing). P Company then sold this model to the army as well as risking the fate of the company by branching out into civil sales. However, it did not sell as well as expected on the civilian market, and the company’s financial situation grew worse with reductions in military spending. However, in the world of watch lovers, the value of the Rolex made military model combat diver’s watch (a rarity collection of only 250) has always been such that even if another company’s gears are inside a smaller version of the watch, many people are of the opinion that the legend of the P Company will still have more than enough name value as a “brand”.
In 1997 the group currently known as the Richemont Group (Cartier’s group) bought out the P Company, which was suffering from a broken family line and a mortal blow to its financial reserves. This new P Brand (without the superior technique that the old P Company had developed) in 1997 made a model with Rolex “Caliber 618” movement (They said, “we found this movement in P Company’s attic,” but the real facts are unknown. Doubt is cast upon this because a technician from the old P Company said that this particular Rolex movement was limited to 250 pieces. Even this was not enough pieces, so they had to use movements from Angelus. Thus, I would say that this tale of finding 60 some odd pieces lying around is a little bit odd. The “618” is a pocket watch movement, so if you collect pocket watches with the same movements in them, you can use those. And then all you have to do is rebuild them and you have a new product). For the shape, they decreased the size of the 1938 Rolex wire leg case Ref.3646 from 47 mm in diameter to 45 mm in diameter.
The watch released at the Basel Fair by P Brand, which had not been known outside the boundaries of the world of watch fans, was a strategic model designed to gather the attention of the watch industry (as well as the new watch mania) that, in order to become known outside watch fan circles intentionally used Rolex movement and rode upon the Rolex name.
1998 saw the release of a model with the exact same design as the model which the old P Company had staked its future upon (1993 44 mm diameter simplified case). The movement was a Unitus 6497. Unfortunately, instead of a dual construction dial, the illumination was simply applied on the index by standard printing. After this the new P Brand produced a variety of different watches (chrono and limited models), but to this day have yet to produce a model that has the equivalent functionality as the original (old P Company’s technology and policies). Their basic line of thought is given to precious metal type watches, so the watches stand out only as decorative pieces.
Reported last year at the Basel Fair was a model with only a few pieces received though regular channels within Japan, and case shape and the original size of 47 mm in diameter were the same as the Rolex model. But the essential antimagnetic inner case was not inserted (just a skeleton again!).
The dial was a duel construction system dial, but the base dial didn’t use antimagnetic material. The most depressing element was the dial index. The 12, 3, 6, and 9 characters were incredibly small for such a large dial face, throwing off the balance and spoiling what could have been a good design. It was unthinkable that a sensitive Italian designer could have created this layout. Also, the needle shape was different from the original. All this came to a fixed Japanese price of 880,000, next to premiere attached items of over 1,000,000. I calculated this to have a base production cost of maybe 5% (1/20) of the price. The remaining 95% would probably go towards profit and the brand name.
* Shiny models with diamonds and such have quite the mark up. They easily get in the range of at least 1/30. What a get rich scheme.
Thank you for reading such a long passage. Making the “Marina Militare” at its original size has been my dream since I started my own original watch brand, R.X.W. (formerly PRO-LEX). This project has been 5 years in the planning and has taken 1 year to produce. I can say with confidence that the splendor of this model makes having only one piece available for the 20th anniversary of R.X.W. a unique pleasure.
May 25, 2003
Ginza KEN TRADING Co., Ltd.
President/ Takeshi Sato
