Since the creation of the GMT magazine in 2002, I have been eagerly awaiting the chance to devote our Testing Bench to one of the creations by the world’s most prestigious watch brand: Patek Philippe. My patience is now rewarded, since the model in question is a new edition of an emblematic model that continues to rock auction rooms: the world time, issued this year under reference number 5131.

Exterior
Over the past few years, I have noted a certain subtle transformation, albeit a moderately paced one, of the watches produced by Patek Philippe. Thierry Stern has definitely played a role in these changes and it therefore seems obvious that he has all the qualities required to pursue the mission of his illustrious predecessors, in harmony with the enduring brand spirit. The evolution he has been overseeing is a perfect blend of traditions and avant-garde technologies, to which a few discreet modifications have been made due to current vogues (market demands) – I’m thinking in particular of the case diameters, to which a few millimetres have been added here or there.

The 5131 is definitely a brand classic and strikes the perfect balance between the heritage of this traditional complication and current aesthetic trends. Beneath its apparently conservative appearance, the case is in fact very reasonably sized (a 39.5 mm diameter) and ideally proportioned. What particularly appealed to me are the lengths and the curve of the lugs, which in my view are even more attractive than the elegant bodywork of a fine vehicle. Guaranteeing the water resistance required by today’s standards, the back is crewed down. The most significant element of this new release for 2008 is of course a cloisonné enamel dial, testifying to superlative craftsmanship which is sadly all but extinct today. Painting such a miniature freehand, placing the wire partitions, successfully handling the many firings, each of which may prove fatal, is a token of the noblest artistry – and indeed this sometimes overused term in watchmaking takes on its full meaning here. The characteristic hands reflect those of the models produced by the Geneva-based Manufacture in the 1940s and 1950s.

Movement
The base movement driving this new release has amply proven its worth, since it is in fact Calibre 240, now appearing under reference 240HU (standing for Heure Universelle or World Time). This refined and efficient movement is equipped with a micro-rotor – a choice that enhances its thickness. Its winding performances are optimal, with the 22-carat gold oscillating weight providing maximum inertia within a diminutive space. Calibre 240 has undergone several technical modifications over the years it has been in use and boasts chronometer-worthy rating qualities. It is of course equipped with the famous Gyromax balance enabling sophisticated dynamic rating, while achieving exemplary isochronism. It is enriched with a world-time mechanism in the shape of an additional module, which proves a judicious and entirely logical choice for this complication. I often mention magnificent finishes in this paragraph, and this model is the ultimate reference in the field and thus naturally worthy to bear the prestigious Geneva Seal.

Tests
The variations in rate are extremely small, even after 24 hours in operation. The measurements in all six positions fall within the range of +1 second per day and + 8 seconds per day in fully-wound position, as well as after 24 hours. The amplitudes decreased by barely 15° and were ideal, while not too excessive in fully-wound position: between 280° and 288° at maximum wind and between 268° and 274° after 24 hours. The stated power reserve of 48 hours is indeed easily surpassed, since this test measured over 52 hours!

So there are no reproaches in terms of performance. The better the product, the more one wishes to challenge it and to detect a potential flaw. Having worked for around ten years as an authorised Patek Philippe agent and after-sales service provider, I had noted a very slight weakness when the Manufacture had taken steps towards industrialisation by moving into its current promises. Doubtless driven by aesthetic concerns, there was a period during which the adjustments were less emphatic and the screws probably looser (for fear of making any unsightly marks). If there were indeed any remaining flaws, my only “chance” to find them was now. But no such defects emerged, providing that Patek Philippe is obviously not resting on its laurels.

Finally, it was time for my favourite test. Accustomed to models measuring 42 mm of more, I did not find the 39.5 mm of the 5131 at all unwieldy, probably due to the ideal proportions and long lugs. The World Time proves extremely comfortable on the wrist and is very easy to handle. The disc corrector, a pusher at 10 o’clock, is very hard to manipulate, which avoids any inadvertent changes of time and confers an extremely reassuring sense of quality and reliability. Finally, the automatic mechanism guarantees swift winding of the mainspring.

Bottom Line
In addition to the fact that Patek Philippe is considered the most prestigious watch brand, and that it has been producing the finest watches for almost 200 years, the most impressive aspect of this company doubtless lies in its management’s ability to guide the evolution of style and technologies over the decades and through all kinds of external crises, while never deviating from its course in terms of quality and identity. The new reference 5131 is a perfect embodiment of this approach. The only possible quibble one might raise is in fact a question of taste: the brand name engraved on the bezel. It nonetheless detracted nothing from the intense pleasure procured by wearing the 5131.

Source: Gmtmag.com